\gv^>9'96'&?''c>£>^3K;t^Vc>^)-S6'e^6VcKS>'a(t  •Z^'r'd'&Q&QyG^ . 


NEW    SYSTEM 


OF 


HOESE  TRAINING 


As  practised  and  taught  by  S.  E.  Olapp, 


INCLUDING   A 


TREATISE  ON  SHOEING. 


ALBANY: 

O.  VAN    BENTHUYSEN,  PRI'nTER, 

1865*     *. 


•CA^t^S 


•HT> 


^9"^^e^^^'»^^9Q<5X2/^g)'^^^Q^N3^<5l'e^»5/SN^^3"^.^Q.gx5^^ 


^ 


X 


I 


PREFACE. 


The  subject  of  horsemanship  is  so  closely  allied  and  identified 
with  all  man's  interest  that  everything  that  can  be  said  to 
promote  a  reform  in  that  particular,  cannot  but  commend 
itself  to  every  one  interested  in  that  noble  animal,  and  who  is 
there  that  is  not.  For  the  most  common  transactions  of  every 
day  life  cannot  be  consummated  without  calling  in  his  aid. 
This  book  is  not  presented  to  the  public  as  an  unexceptionable 
treatise  on  the  horse.  It  is  merely  a  plain  practical  exposition 
of  the  best  system  of  horsemanship,  that  to-day  is  extant,  one 
that  has  met  with  the  approbation  and  commendation  of  the 
best  horsemen  of  the  age,  and  one  that  has  received  a  patronage 
vouchsafed  to  no  other  system.  It  is  merely  to  gratify  a  desire 
expressed  by  hundreds  who  have  witnessed  my  operations,  to 
have  me  publish  a  book  explanatory  of  the  system,  so  that  many 
things  that  otherwise  might  escape  their  notice,  that  can  at  any 
moment  be  refreshed  by  simply  a  reference  to  the  book,  and  yet 
every  move  with  the  horse  is  made  so  plain  and  intelligible,  that 
those  who  have  never  witnessed  my  operations  can  take  hold 
of  and  manage  the  wildest  colt  or  the  most  vicious  horse.  While 
I  beg  from  the  scrutinizing  public  a  charitilble  criticism  for  any 
short  coming  that  may  be  discovered,  I  yet  feel  great  confidence 
that  the  work  will  meet  with  a  hearty  approval  from  horsemen 
generally  and  prove  a  valuable  auxilliary  in  bringing  about  that 
much  needed  reform  in  the  proper  management  and  control  of 
the  most  noble  of  the  brute  creation. 


f 


TREATISE  01  HORSE  TAMING. 


NATURE  OF  THE  HORSE. 

The  horse  has  no  reasoning  faculties  beyond  the  limits  of  his 
experience.  Hence  we  can  reason  with  him  by  acts  alone. 
Literally  with  the  horse,  acts  speak  louder  than  words,  and 
hence  the  absolute  importance  of  commencing  every  move  with 
the  horse  right.  For  by  our  acts  he  learns.  Secondly  —  Early 
impressions  are  strong,  both  in  the  human  family  and  with  the 
horse,  and  seldom,  if  ever,  are  entirely  erased  from  memory's 
tablet. 

Who  is  there  in  the  human  family  that  does  not  well  remember 
the  first  impressions  of  his  boyhood  days,  and  as  we  journey  on 
through  life  '^hat  a  controlling  influence  they  exert  over  us. 
Just  so  with  the  horse ;  hence  the  great  importance  of  having 
his  first  impressions  of  man  of  such  a  nature  as  to  convince  him, 
not  only  of  man's  superiority,  but  to  satisfy  him  that  man  is  his 
best  friend.  Obtain  by  a  systematic  course  of  handling  not 
only  supreme  power  over  him,  but  learn  him  also  to  repose  trust 
and  confidence  in  you,  and  then  never  betray  it.  No  animal  has 
memory  equal  to  that  of  the  horse,  and  none  will  reciprocate  a 
kindness  or  resent  an  injury  sooner.  We  hold  that  man  being, 
on  account  of  his  intellectual  resources,  superior  to  all  other 
animals,  is  and  hafe  afcright  to  be  at  the  head  of  all  animal 
creation,  for  he  can  ackpt  means  to  overcome  the  strength  of 
the  horse  or  even  use  it  against  himself. 

NECESSITY  OF  KINDNESS  AND  HONESTY. 

You  must  treat  the  horse  kindly  —  you  must  obtain  his  confi" 
dence  and  then  never  abuse  it  —  deal  honestly  with  him  —  never 
lie  to  him. —  he  judges  you  by  your  acts  —  never  ask  him  to  do 
anything  without  you  are  in  a  position  to  compel  obedience,  ( if 
he  has  a  correct  idea  of  what  you  want )  and  then  when  the 
obedience  is  rendered,  reward  him  for  it.  Be  prompt,  but  never 
deceive  him.  •    .  ^ 

\ 


1 


NECESSITY  OF  FAMILIARIZING  TO  OBJECTS  OF  FEAR. 
As  we  are  taught,  there  is  no  effect  without  a  cause,  and  as 
the  horse  becomes  fearless  and  confident  so  far  as  he  understands, 
there  is  no  cause  for  fear.  We  should  remove  the  cause  of 
mischief  as  much  as  possible  by  complying  with  those  laws  of 
his  nature  by  which  he  examines  an  object,  or  determines  upon 
its  innocence  or  harm.  Therefore  let  him  examine  and  smell  of 
such  things  as  are  likely  to  frighten  him,  such  as  a  log  by  the 
road-side,  an  umbrella,  buffalo  robe,  or  any  frightful  object—^ 
his  nose  is  his  fingers. 

USB  INTELLIGENT  MEANS. 

The  horse  should  be  treated  with  kindness  and  consideration  ; 
you  have  a  right  to  curb  and  restrain  his  spirit,  but  not  to  subdue 
it;  he  has  no  more  natural  spirit  thiln  it  is  proper  he  should 
have,  and  the  great  difficulty  with  all  the  theories  of  horseman- 
ship that  have  been  promulgated  to  the  world  is,  that  they  have 
been  founded  upon  the  one  idea  of  subjugation  alone.  Subju- 
gation is  not  teaching ;  you  have  a  right  to  restrain  —  to  make 
them  conform  to  your  will.  But  you  must  also  teach  him  what 
you  want  him  to  do.  To  hitch  up  the  wild  colt  and  to  say  whoa 
to  him,  without  first  having  taught  him  the  word  whoa,  is  unrea- 
sonable in  the  extreme.  'Tis  true,  we  cannot  handle  the  wild 
colt  that  is  actuated  by  fear  as  we  can  the  old  horse  that  is 
actuated  by  vengeance ;  with  the  one  we  are  all  mildnesss, 
whereas  we  take  hold  of  the  other  in  a  manner  that  satisfies  him 
that  there  is  to  be  no  partnership  arrangement  about  it,  but  we 
are  to  have  it  our  way  all  the  time. 

TO  HALTER  THE  WILD  €OLT. 

Provide  yourself  with  a  pole,  a  piece  of  edging,  a  rake  handle 
or  anything  else  of  that  kind,  cut  a  notch  into  one  end  and 
about  seven  inches  from  this  end  raise  a  few  chips  from  the 
opposite  end  of  the  stick.  Then  take  a  common  rope  halter, 
draw  out  the  stale  through  the  loop  so  that  that  portion  will 
drop  down  eighteen  or  twenty  inches  ,  now  hang  the  head  piece 
on  the  notches  on  the  end  of  your  stick,  holding  the  end  in 
your  hand  with  your  stick ;  your  halter  now  hangs  upon  your 
stick  so  spread  that  you  can  put  it  over  the  colt's  ears  without 
touching  any  part  of  his  head.  You  now  approach  the  colt 
swinging  your  halter,  which  immediately  attracts  his  attention 
and  he  will  reach  out  his  nose  to  smell  it.  While  he  is  smelling 
of  it,  you  cautiously  raise  it  over  his  head  until  back  of  his 


ears^  then  turn  your  stick  half  round  and  your  halter  will  drop 
upon  his  head,  now  take  the  end  of  the  stick  and  shove  up  th^ 
loop  so  as  to  draw  up  the  slack  and  your  colt  is  haltered,  and 
he  is  not  frightened  and  you  are  not  hurt. 

TO  LEARN  THE  COLT  TO  LEAD. 

Step  back  on  a  line  with  his  hips  and  say  "  come  here  sir," 
and  give  him  a  smart,  sharp  pull,  which  will  swing  him  round 
to  you,  then  step  to  the  opposite  side  and  give  him  the  same 
side  pull  and  say,  "  come  here  sir."  If  he  should  not  pull  easily 
enough,  as  soon  as  you  can  gentle  him  enough  to  approach  him, 
fasten  up  with  a  short  strap  one  fore  foot  and  then  you  can  pull 
him  the  more  readily  either  side ;  never  pull  him  straight  ahead 
until  after  you  have  learned  him  to  come  promptly  either  side, 
for  side-ways  you  can  pull  him  and  straight  ahead  you  cannot. 
Do  not  let  him  know  his  strength  for  he  has  no  reasoning  powers 
to  say  ' '  you  can  pull  me  sideways  but  straight  ahead  you  cannot. ' ' 
Should  he  sulk  after  a  little  and  refuse  to  come  either  way,  take 
a  short  hold  of  the  halter  with  the  left  hand,  while  with  the 
right  grasp  the  tail  firmly  and  whirl  him  round  until  he  acts 
dizzy,  then  whirl  him  the  other  way.  This  convinces  him  you 
can  handle  him  just  as  you  please.  The  moment  he  follows  you 
pat  him  for  it. 

TO  HANDLE  THE  COLT'S  FEET. 

If  a  fore  foot,  stand  by  the  side  of  your  colt  and  throw  over 
his  back  a  light  strap  and  tie  it  around  his  arm  loosely,  so  that 
it  will  slip  down  to  his  fetlock  joint,  then  take  up  his  foot  with 
the  strap  and  keep  close  to  his  side  until  after  he  is  through 
struggling,  then  commence  to  gentle  the  foot  with  your  hands 
and  pound  upon  it  a  very  little.  '  In  a  short  time  he  will  suffer 
you  to  handle  it  as  ^ou  please.  If  a  hind  foot  .take  the  fore 
foot  in  your  left  hand  while  with  your  right  you  pass  the  end  of 
the  strap  around  the  hind  leg  below  the  fetlock.  Now  pull 
upon  the  strap  which  will  cause  the  foot  to  be  drawn  forward. 
This  he  will  resist  by  kicking,  but  he  soon  finds  resistance 
useless  and  will  give  you  his  foot,  then  take  it  into  your  hands 
and  gentle  as  described  for  the  fore  foot.  If  more  thorough 
treatment  is  found  necessary,  see  management  of  horse  bad  to 
shoe. 

HOW  TO  RIDE  THE  WILD  COLT. 

Stand  upon  the  near  side  of  your  colt  and  through  over  his 
back  a  piece  of  web  or  a  strap  and  fasten  to  his  right  fore  foot 


1 


5 

below  tlie  fetlock  joint,  then  take  np  his  foot  and  hold  it  for  g, 
few  minutes  until  he  ceases  struggling,  then  quietly  let  him 
have  it  and  lead  him  along  a  few  steps  and  say  whoa,  and  at  the 
same  time  you  say  whoa,  draw  up  the  strap,  which  makes  him 
stop,  for  it  puts  him  on  three  legs,  After  you  have  led  him  a 
little  ways  in  this  way,  stand  by  his  side  and  take  up  his  foot 
and  wind  your  hand  in  the  strap  and  commence  to  jump  up  and 
down  by  his  side  a  few  times,  keeping  hold  of  the  foot;  then 
carefully  jump  on  him  with  your  breast  and  slide  back  again  ; 
then  while  holding  up  the  foot  jump  quietly  on  his  back.  Now 
let  down  his  foot  and  if  he  shows  the  least  disposition  to  stir 
take  up  his  foot  and  drop  it  and  take  it  again.  The  idea  is  that 
he  cannot  think  of  two  things  at  once,  and  the  moment  he  thinks 
of  throwing  you  off  ( which  you  detect  by  the  drawing  of  the 
muscels  of  his  back,)  you  take  his  foot  and  change  his  attention  to 
that  and  his  back  is  all  right.    This  plan  will  ride  any  colt  or  horse. 

TO  TEACH  A  COLT  TO  FOLLOW  UNDER  THE  WHIP. 

Buckle  around  your  colt  an  ordinary  surcingle  rather  loosely, 
take  a  piece  of  web  or  a  long  strap,  about  fifteen  or  even  twenty 
feet  in  length.  Take  the  strap  and  pass  it  through  the  surcingle 
and  fasten  to  the  colt's  left  fore  foot,  now  take  hold  of  the  strap 
about  six  feet  from  where  it  passes  through  the  surcingle  and 
place  your  whip  over  the  colt's  back  and  commence  to  tap  him 
on  the  right  side  of  the  head  very  gently.  If  he  turns  his  head 
towards  you  and  looks  or  makes  a  step  towards  you,  stop  and 
pat  him ;  if  he  attempts  to  leave  you  take  his  foot  and  let  him 
go  on  tnree  legs  running  around  you ;  the  moment  he  stops 
step  up  to  him  again,  place  your  whip  over  his  back  and  repeat, 
and  in  a  very  few  minutes  he  will  then  turn  towards  you  the 
moment  you  place  the  whip  on  the  opposite  side.  Then  you 
can  take  off  your  strap  and  he  will  follow  you  readily,  but  be 
careful  and  not  whip  when  he  is  turning  towards  you.  Keep 
him  in  difficulty  with  the  whip  whenever  he  turns  his  head  from 
you,  but  the  moment  he  turns  towards  you  reward  him,  and  he 
will  soon  learn  there  is  no  peace  except  by  you;  and  then 
practice  will  soon  make  him  perfect.  The  same  plan  breaks 
the  wild  steer  to  haw  and  gee  under  the  whip. 
THE  WAR  BRIDLE. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  powerful  means  of  control  in  the 
management  of  the  horse  that  is  known.  The  War  Bridle  is 
simply  a  cord  of  about  the  size  of  a  common  bed-cord  or  clothes- 
line. It  should  be  of  cotton  and  made  of  fine  yarn,  or  what  is 
known  as  fine  thread  cotton  cord,  about  three-eighths  of  an  inch 


in  diameter,  used  extensively  for  clothes-lines  —  or.  any  cord  of 
about  the  same  strength. 

Take  a  cord  of  the  above  description  —  in  length  about  fifteen 
feet ;  tie  one  end  into  a  hard  knot,  just  as  you  would  to  prevent 
its  ravelling ;  now  tie  another  knot  about  ten  inches,  or  a  little 
more,  from  the  one  on  the  end,  but  before  you  draw  it  tight  put 
the  knot  on  the  end  through.  You  now  have  a  loop  that  will 
not  slip.  This  loop  should  be  just  large  enough  to  slip  over  the 
under  jaw  of  the  horse  you  wish  to  train ;  put  the  loop  over  the 
lower  jaw,  then,  while  standing  on  the  near  side,  take  the  cord 
in  the  left  hand  and  bring  over  the  neck  by  passing  the  left 
hand  under  the  neck  to  the  opposite  side,  towards  the  mane ; 
now  bring  the  right  hand  over  the  neck,  and  take  the  cord  from 
the  left  and  pass  back  to  the  loop  and  put  through  from  the  top 
side,  until  the  part  over  the  neck  is  drawn  down  like  a  check 
rein ;  now  take  hold  of  the  end  of  this  rein  and  you  will  find 
you  have  a  means  of  power  in  it  that  makes  the  strongest  horse 
almost  a  plaything  in  your  hands.  You  must  use  this  bridle 
with  judgment,  for  in  the  proper  use  of  it  consists  its  great 
value.  In  handling  the  colt  with  it  you  must  use  the  utmost 
mildness,  whereas  many  who  have  witnessed  my  operations,  and 
then  commenced  subsequently  to  use  it,  have  made  a  little 
resistance  on  the  part  of  the  colt  an  excuse  to  use  it  in  the  most 
severe  manner,  until  the  colt  becomes  so  desperate  with  pain  as 
to  be  entirely  reckless  and  regardless  of  the  utmost  efforts,  but 
in  the  management  of  the  old  horse  you  can  take  hold  of  him 
as  if  you  were  determined  that  any  resistance  on  his  part  would 
be  entirely  useless.  Step  to  one  side  of  your  colt  and  say, 
"  come  here,  sir,"  pulling  a  very  little  on  the  bridle,  just  enough 
to  bring  his  head  towards  you,  and  repeat  for  a  few  times,  each 
time  that  he  comes  towards  you  at  the  word,-  reward  him  with 
a  pat  on  the  neck,  and  if  he  don't  stir,  pull  him  with  the  bridle. 
Any  colt  or  horse  can  be  made  to  follow  you  in  a  very  few 
minutes  with  this  bridle. 

HANDLING  THE  COLT'S  FEET. 
Commence  gently  to  pick  up  his  feet,  and  if  he  resists  you 
reprove  him  for  it  by  pulling  down  a  little  on  the  mouth  with 
the  bridle,  which  will  act  like  a  charm.  If  it  is  the  hind  feet 
you  wish  to  handle,  put  a  strap  to  his  hind  foot  and  bring  up 
the  foot,  then  the  moment  he  kicks,  bring  down  on  the  mouth 
sharply  with  the  bridle.  In  a  short  time  he  will  submit ;  if  not, 
use  him  according  to  directions  laid  down  elsewhere  for  the 
horse  bad  to  shoe. 


7 

TO  TEACH  THE  COLT  TO  BACK. 

Put  on  the  War  Bridle,  stand  directly  in  front  of  your  horse, 
having  hold  of  the  cord  —  about  twenty  inches  from  the  head 
—  with  your  left  hand,  resting  the  right  on  the  cord  or  bridle 
about  four  or  five  inches  from  the  head.  You  will  say  "  back, 
sir,"  and  at  the  same  time  press  down  and  back  with  your  right 
hand  steadily  on  the  cord  until,  by  way  of  relieving  himself,  he 
will  step  back  one  step ;  let  up  on  the  cord,  and  pat  him.  That 
teaches  him  what  you  want.  Then  repeat  for  a  few  times,  and 
after  you  have  given  him  the  idea  and  the  motion,  you  then 
can  press  him  back  sharply  with  the  cord,  and  in  a  few  minutes 
more  at  the  word;  This  will  never  fail  to  teach  the  colt  or  bad 
horse  to  back. 

BITTING  THE  COLT. 

All  you  can  possibly  accomplish  with  the  old  fashioned  bitting 
bridle  I  can  accomplish  with  my  bridle  in  forty  minutes,  and 
that  is  to  teach  the  horse  to  hold  down  his  head,  hold  up  his 
his  head,  and  to  the  right  and  to  the  left  at  the  touch  of  the 
rein.  If  nature  has  not  designated  the  horse  to  have  a  high, 
stylish  head  and  carriage,  no  art  of  man  can  alter  it,  and  the 
old  fashioned  practice  of  straining  up  the  neck  in  an  unnatural 
position,  and  leaving  it  there  for  hours,  nine  times  out  of  ten 
results  in  a  heavy-headed  lugger  on  the  bits. 

HOW  TO  MAKE  A  BITTING  BRIDLE. 

Take  your  cord,  previously  used,  and  fix  a  loop  upon  the 
other  end,  just  like  the  one  used  to  go  over  the  jaw,  only  big 
enough  to  go  over  his  neck,  and  fit  down  rather  tight  where  the 
collar  is  worn  ;  now  bring  your  cord  forward,  put  through  the 
mouth  from  the  off  side  and  bring  back  on  the  near  side,  and 
put  through  the  loop  around  the  neck ;  now  pull  upon  this  cord 
and  the  head  will  be  drawn  back  to  the  breast.  You  are  now 
prepared  to  bit.  Simply  pull  upon  the  cord  a  little,  and  as  soon 
as  he  curbs  his  head  well,  relieve  him  —  that  teaches  him  it  is 
there  you  want  it.  When  you  want  to  raise  his  head,  lift 
quickly  on  the  cord,  and  you  elevate  his  head  finely.  You 
should  not  bit  over  five  minutes  at  a  time,  and  then  put  it  away, 
and  after  a  little  resume  it,  and  in  forty  minutes  time,  dividing 
each  bitting  into  five  minutes  each,  you  can  bit  your  colt  well. 

TRAINING  TO  HARNESS. 

You  should  be  very  careful  the  first  time  you  undertake  to 
harness  your  colt,  to  see  that  the  harness  fits  perfectly  well, 


8 

and  that  it  is  perfectly  safe.  Many  accidents  have  been  the 
results  of  such  carelessness.  Then,  with  aid  of  the  bridle  to 
reprove  him  if  he  resists  the  putting  of  the  harness  on  him, 
harness  him,  and  after  you  have  moved  him  about  a  little,  attach 
to  him,  before  yoH  undertake  to  hitch  him  to  the  sulky,  what  I 
shall  call  a  foot  strap,  which  is  simply  a  piece  of  webbing,  or  a 
piece  of  strap  or  rope  long  enough  to  be  fastened  to  one  of  his 
forward  feet,  and  then  run  over  the  belly-band  of  the  harness, 
and  then  outside  of  the  tugs  back  to  the  buggy  or  sulky,  which 
you  hold  in  your  hand  as  a  life  insurance  or  third  rein.  If  he 
attempts  to  run  away,  pull  upon  the  strap,  which  throws  him 
on  three  feet  instantly,  and  he  has  to  stop.  If  he  attempts  to 
run  back,  the  same  remedy  stops  him.  If  he  attempts  to  kick 
you,  attract  his  attention  forward  instantly,  and  at  the  same 
time  make  it  impossible  for  him  to  kick.  The  moment  you 
notice  any  disposition  to  kick,  you  take  his  foot  which  disconcerts 
him,  and  attracts  his  attention  away  from  his  hind  parts,  while 
it  is  impossible  for  him  to  kick ;  but  do  not  take  his  foot  and 
hold  it,  but  keep  snatching  and  letting  him  have  it,  and  you 
will  soon  break  him  up  of  the  habit.  This  is  one  of  the  most 
powerful  means  of  control  ever  yet  devised ;  because  you  beat 
him  while  right  in  the  act. 

OBJECTS  OF  FEAR. 

Never  whip  your  horse  for  becoming  frightened  at  any  object 
by  the  road-side  ;  for  if  he  sees  a  stump,  a  log,  or  a  heap  of  tan 
bark  in  the  road,  and  while  he  is  eyeing  it  carefully,  and  about 
to  pass  it,  you  strike  him  with  the  whip,  it  is  the  log,  or  the 
stump,  or  the  tan  bark  that  is  hurting  him,  in  his  way  of 
reasoning,  and  the  next  time  he  will  act  more  frightened.  Give 
him  time  to  examine  and  smell  of  all  these  objects,  and  use  the 
war  bridle  to  assist  you  in  bringing  him  carefully  to  these 
objects  of  fear.  Bring  all  objects,  if  possible,  to  his  nose,  and 
let  him  smell  of  them,  and  then  you  can  commence  to  gentle 
him  with  them. 

DRIVING. 

In  teaching  a  young  horse  to  drive  well,  do  not  be  in  a  hurry 
to  see  how  fast  he  can  trot.  Keep  each  pace  clear  and  distinct 
from  each  other, — that  is  in  walking,  make  him  walk,  and  do 
not  allow  him  to  trot.  While  trotting  be  equally  careful  that 
he  keeps  steadily  at  his  pace,  and  do  not  allow  him  to  slack  into 
a  walk.  The  reins,  while  driving,  should  be  kept  snug ;  and 
when  purshed  to  the  top  of  his  speed,  keep  him  well  in  hand 
that  he  may  learn  to  bear  well  upon  the  bit,  so  that  when  going 


9 

at  a  high  rate  of  speed  he  can  be  held  at  his  pace,  but  do  not  allow 
him  to  pull  too  hard,  for  that  is  not  only  unpleasant,  but  makes  it 
often  difficult  to  manage  him. 

TO  TRAIN  A  HORSE  TO  STAND  WHEN  GETTING  INTO  A  CARRIAGE. 

Take  your  horse  on  the  barn  floor  and  throw  a  strap  over  his 
back  and  fasten  it  to  his  right  fore  foot ;  lead  him  along  and 
say  "whoa,"  at  the  same  time  pull  down  on  the  strap,  which 
throws  him  on  three  feet  and  makes  him  stop  suddenly.  This 
is  the  best  way  known  to  teach  whoa  —  though  you  can  put  on 
the  war  bridle,  and  say  whoa,  and  give  him  a  sharp  jerk  that 
will  stop  him  about  as  soon  as  the  strap  to  the  foot  Then  put 
him  in  harness  with  the  foot  strap,  as  directed  to  under  the 
head  of  "  training  to  harness,"  and  drive  him  up  to  the  door. 
The  moment  he  undertakes  to  move,  take  his  foot  and  say  whoa. 
Gret  into  your  carriage  and  get  out  again ;  rattle  the  thills . 
make  all  the  noise  getting  in  and  out  you  can;  give  him  to 
understand,  by  snatching  his  foot  each  time  he  moves,  that  he 
must  stand  until  you  tell  him  to  go ;  and  in  a  few  times  you 
will  have  a  horse  that  you  can  put  the  whole  family  in  and  he 
wont  stir  out  of  his  tracks. 

BALKY  HORSES. 

When  the  horse  balks  in  harness,  it  is  not  from  any  unwilling- 
ness to  perform  his  duty,  but  from  some  confuison  or  excitement 
arising  from  mismanagement.  He  is  willing  and  anxious  to  go, 
but  too  eager  or  high  spirited  to  make  the  steady  push  against 
the  collar  necessary  to  move  the  load.  The  usual  plan  is  to 
commence  to  curse  and  lash.  A  volume  might  be  written  on 
the  importance  of  keeping  cool  on  all  such  occasions.  Frequently, 
simply  going  to  their  heads  and  moving  them  gently  against 
their  collars  to  the  right  and  left  evenly,  giving  them  time  to 
get  cool,  and  they  will  start  of  their  own  accord.  Sometimes 
taking  up  one  fore  foot  in  you  hand,  and  giving  the  horse  a 
sharp  press  against  the  shoulder,  to  one  side,  will  cause  him  to 
step,  and  start  him.  But  if  the  habit  is  firmly  fixed,  you  will 
have  to  resort  to  the  following  means,  which  will  take  a  few 
lessons,  and  then  you  break  up  the  habit. 

Take  your  balky  horse  in  the  barn  or  on  a  piece  of  green 
sward;  take  him  by  the  head  and  tail  and  whirl  him  around 
until  he  is  quite  dizzy,  and  if  you  become  dizzy  before  he  does, 
let  him  whirl  himself  as  follows :  Tie  the  hair  of  the  tail  into 
a  hard  knot ;  then  take  the  halter  strap  in  your  left  hand,  holding 
the  tail  in  your  right,  pass  the  halter  strap  through  the  hair, 


10 

above  the  knot,  and  draw  up  as  short  as  the  horse  will  bear 
without  running  around  tying  quickly.  This  will  bring  the 
horse  in  the  form  of  a  half-circle  —  his  head  fast  to  his  tail  by 
the  halter  strap.  Your  object  is  to  break  up  his  confidence  in 
himself  :  and  nothing  on  earth,  no  process  you  can  subject  him 
to,  will  do  it  half  so  soon  as  this.  Should  he  not  run  around 
very  freely,  touch  him  behind  with  the  whip,  which  will  cause 
him  to  move  sharply.  Simply  keeping  him  moving  until  he 
falls  down  by  becoming  dizzy,  which  he  will  do  inside  of  a 
minute  and  a-half.  Let  him  lie  a  few  minutes ;  then  tie  him 
in  the  opposite  direction  and  put  him  through  until  he  falls,  or 
is  unable  to  move.  Then  put  oaa  your  war  bridle  and  give  him 
a  few  sharp  jerks  to  the  right  and  left,  and  show  him  you  can 
handle  him  by  the  head  as  well  as  by  the  tail ;  and  train  him 
until  he  will  spring  to  the  right  and  left  and  straight  forward, 
when  you  ask  him  to  —  and  then  you  are  in  a  shape  to  put  him  in 
harness.  If  he  refuses  to  draw,  step  in  front  of  him  with  the 
bridle  on,  and  fetch  him  either  way  first,  and  then  straight 
ahead ;  and  in  a  short  time  you  will  work  it  out  of  him.  If  at 
any  time  your  horse  should  become  warm,  set  him  away  and  let 
him  cool.  You  will  gain  time  by  it,  for  when  sulky  and  heated, 
he  is  in  no  shape  to  learn. 

KICKING  IN  HARNESS. 

Kicking  in  harness  is  regarded  as  one  of  the  worst  and  the 
most  dangerous  habits  that  the  horse  has.  How  often  do  we 
hear  the  remark  made  by  dealers,  "  I  care  not  what  he  will  do 
if  he  will  not  kick."  It  is  generally  the  result  in  the  first 
instance  of  gross  carlessness  and  bad  management.  The  habit 
in  the  colt,  frequently,  is  formed  by  suff'ering  the  straps  to 
dangle  about  his  flanks  and  legs,  which  frightens  him  and  makes 
him  kick,  as  a  matter  of  self-defence.  In  old  horses  the  habit 
usually  is  caused  by  some  mishap  while  in  harness,  such  as 
hitching  him  too  near,  so  that  his  heels  touch  the  cross  bar ;  or, 
by  a  bolt  of  the  thills  coming  out  and  letting  the  wagon  on  his 
heels. 

This  fear  must  be  broken  up  by  habituating  the  horse  to  being 
touched,  and  made  to  bear  the  various  causes  of  mischief  without 
the  ability  to  resist ;  when  he  becoming  convinced  that  there  is 
no  harm  to  be  apprehended  from  them,  he  will  give  up  the  habit. 
Your  main  remedy  is  the  foot  strap.  Put  on  your  foot  strap, 
and  as  the  horse  moves  off,  say  gently,  whoa,  and  instantly  pull 
upon  the  strap,  wnich  throws  him  upon  three  legs  —  and  so 
continue  until  he  will  stop  instantly  when  whoa  is  called.     Then 


11 

tempt  the  horse  to  kick,  and  the  next  instant  take  his  foot. 
Put  your  strap  between  his  hind  legs  and  dangle  it  all  around 
him  ;  use  behind  him  any  frightful  object  that  he  is  afraid  of, 
and  for  the  first  few  times  in  harness,  use  him  with  the  foot  strap 
on,  as  the  third  rein. 

KICKING  IN  STALL. 

Put  on  the  saddle  part  of  a  carriage  harness  and  buckle  on 
tightly.  Then  take  a  short  strap  with  a  ring  attached,  and 
buckle  around  the  forward  foot  below  the  fetlock.  To  this  short 
strap  attach  another  strap,  which  bring  up  and  pass  through  the 
turret;  then  return  to  the  foot  and  run  through  the  ring  in  the 
short  strap,  then  pass  over  the  belly  band  and  tie  to  the  hiui! 
leg  below  the  fetlock.  With  this  attachment  on  each  side,  the 
moment  a  horse  kicks  he  pulls  his  forward  feet  from  under  and 
trips  himself  upon  his  knees,  which  he  will  be  very  careful  not 
to  do  but  a  few  times. 

HALTER  PULLING. 

Put  on  the  war  bridle  and  train  the  horse  about  until  he  will 
come  to  you  readily  when  you  pull  upon  him  a  little  sideways. 
Simply  repeat  this,  gradually  a  little  more  on  a  line  with  his 
body  at  each  repetition,  until  he  will  yield  as  readily  to  being 
pulled  forward  as  sideways.  Now  take  him  to  the  post  and  run 
your  bridle  through  the  ring,  but  do  not  tie  it  •  keep  hold  of  it 
in  your  hand  and  frighten  him  back,  as  he  starts  to  run  back, 
give  him  a  quick,  sharp  pull,  and  then  let  go.  Do  not  hang  on, 
even  if  he  draws  the  bridle  out  of  the  ring.  Fetch  him  up 
again,  and  repeat,  and  at  the  third  or  fourth  trial  you  will  not 
be  able  to  make  him  pull.  Then  do  not  consider  him  broken 
by  any  means,  but  repeat  whenever  he  has  the  habit  of  pulling ; 
at  the  post  in  the  street,  in  the  stall  or  wherever  it  may  be. 
Another  plan  is  :  Tie  a  strap  or  a  piece  of  rope  around  the  body,  "^ 
where  the  harness  saddle  rests ;  now  lead  the  horse  to  his 
manger  or  to  a  post,  run  the  halter  strap  through  the  ring  or 
hole,  and  pass  back  between  the  fore  legs,  over  the  strap  or 
rope  tied  around  the  body,  and  tie  to  the  hind  leg,  below  the 
fetlock.  You  now  step  forward  to  his  head  and  make  him  pull. 
Of  course  he  will  go  back  with  a  rush,  but  the  moment  he 
attempts  going  back,  the  halter  strap  pulls  directly  upon  the 
hind  leg,  which  frightens  him  behind,  and  he  steps  forward  to 
get  out  of  difficulty.  Three  or  four  lessons  will  usually  break 
up  the  habit ;  but  do  not  be  afraid  of  making  him  pull.  Frighten 
him  back  by  all  means  possible.  The  more  you  can  make  him 
pull  upon  himself,  at  first,  the  quicker  he  will  give  it  up. 


12 

THE  HORSE  BAD  TO  SHOE. 
Usually,  all  horses  bad  to  shoe,  can  be  shod  by  attaching  to 
his  hind  foot  a  short  strap,  and  taking  it  in  your  right  hand, 
while  you  have  the  war  bridle  on  him  and  in  your  left  hand, 
you  pull  his  foot  forward  with  the  strap,  at  which  he  kicks  and 
you  reprove  him  with  the  war  bridle,  keeping  his  foot  up  with 
the  strap  until  he  submits  without  resistance.  But  if  your 
subject  is  very  bad,  take  a  piece  of  webbing,  a  strap,  or  a  rope 
about  twelve  foot  long ;  step  before  the  horse  and  tie  one  end 
of  it  in  a  loop  around  the  neck,  where  the  collar  rests.  Now 
pass  the  other  end  back  between  the  fore  legs,  around  the  near 
hind  leg,  below  the  fetlock,  and  bring  forward  outside  of  the 
left  fore  leg  and  put  through  the  loop  around  the  neck  ;  now 
step  a  little  in  front  of  the  horse  and  take  hold  of  this  strap 
and  pull  back  upon  it,  until  you  bring  the  foot  forward  a  very 
little,  just  so  that  when  he  undertakes  to  step  he  can  just  reach 
the  floor  a  little ;  in  a  few  minutes  more  take  up  his  foot  as  far 
forward  as  you  can,  when  you  can  hold  it  very  easily.  He  will 
struggle  to  free  the  foot  by  kicking,  but  you  must  let  him 
struggle,  and  if  he  undertakes  to  run  backward,  whirl  him 
around  by  the  head  until  he  will  yield  his  foot.  As  soon  as  he 
yields  a  little,  handle  it  gently  until  he  will  suffer  you  to  handle 
it  while  back  in  its  natural  position.  Be  sure  and  rub  the  leg 
very  carefully  when  you  put  it  down,  and  use  a  soft  strap  or 
piece  of  webbing,  for  fear  you  may  chafe  the  foot. 

RUNNING  AWAY. 

Put  on  the  foot  strap,  and  when  he  attempts  to  run,  take  up 
his  foot,  making  him  run  and  tripping  him  every  time  he  will 
not  stop  instantly  at  the  word  whoa.  Should  he  be  extremely 
wilful,  he  may  run  on  three  legs.  If  you  mistrust  so,  attach 
another  strap  to  the  opposite  foot.  Then  make  him  run,  and  if 
he  will  not  stop  for  the  taking  up  of  one  foot,  take  up  the 
second,  which  will  destroy  his  confidence  in  short  order.  This 
will  effectually  beat  any  run  away'  horse  or  team. 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

Mankind  are  too  apt  to  depend  upon  their  strength  to  beat 
the  horse  without  making  any  use  of  their  reasoning  powers  to 
out  general  him, — and,  in  many  instances,  such  an  exercise  of 
tyranny  over  the  horse  only  engenders  a  rebellious  spirit  on  the 
part  of  the  animal.  Therefore  lay  aside  your  strength,  and  use 
your  reason  ;  be  moderate,  be  temperate.     No  man  can  become 


I 


13 

a  good  horseman,  and  not  have  first  learned  to  control  himself, 
before  he  attempts  to  control  the  animal.  Be  firm,  be  persever- 
ing, be  honest — never  lie  to  your  horse.  Endeavor  to  have  him 
understand  what  you  want,  and  do  not  confuse  him  by  attaching 
different  meanings  to  the  same  word.  It  is  quite  common  to 
say  whoa,  when  it  is  only  intended  to  go  slower  ;  or  when  the 
horse  has  not  stirred  a  foot,  to  let  him  know  of  your  presence, 
and  then  when  you  want  a  whoa — when  your  life  may  depend 
upon  your  having  a  good  whoa  upon  your  horse — you  find  you 
have  not  got  it.  You  have  played  it  entirely  out  of  him.  Never 
say  whoa,  unless  you  mean  to  stop  right  there.  Speak  always 
in  a  natural  tone  of  voice,  under  all  circumstances. 

Have  your  horse  understand  by  examination  and  experience, 
that  things  liable  to  frighten  are  harmless ;  and  be  sure  not  to 
whip  for  being  frigntened.  Always  let  your  horse  face  the 
object  of  fear,  and,  when  frightened,  remember  the  slower  you 
move  your  horse,  the  more  power  you  have  over  him.  There 
are  times  when  letting  a  horse  trot  is  almost  as  bad  as  letting 
him  run  away. 

Fear  is  something  a  horseman  should  never  exhibit,  in  his 
countenance  or  voice,  as  the  horse  is  a  close  observer,  and  soon 
learns  to  take  advantage  of  such  indications,  to  become  careless 
of  control,  if  not,  indeed,  aggressive.  Let  your  lessons  be 
thorough  but  not  very  long.  Be  gentle  and  patient  with  the 
colt,  but  make  the  willful,  stubborn  horse  feel  the  full  extent  of 
your  power  until  he  submits.  Though  if  he  should  become  much 
heated  and  excited,  it  is  prudent  to  stop,  and  repeat  the  lesson 
at  some  future  time ;  but  repeat  until  there  is  thorough  and 
unconditional  submission.  Let  your  treatment  be  characterized 
by  gentleness  afterwards. 

TRICKS. 

As  many  of  my  scholars  may  wish  to  know  how  to  teach  their 
horses  tricks,  I  will  explain  how  it  may  be  done.  Teaching  a 
young  horse  a  few  tricks  serves  greatly  to  keep  up  an  interest  in 
him,  and  makes  him  appear  intelligent,  fearless  and  afi"ectionate. 
In  teaching  your  horse  to  perform  tricks,  it  is  best  to  give  him 
one  or  two  lessons  of  half  or  three-quarters  of  an  hour  each, 
daily. 

TO  COME   AT   THE   CRACK  OF   THE   WHIP    OR  AT  THE  WORD   OF 
COMMAND. 

Put  on  the  war  bridle,  stand  off  a  few  feet  from  his  head, 
holding  the  end  of  the  bridle  in  your  left  hand  and  the  whip  in 
the  right. 


14 


^ 


Crack  the  whip  a  little,  and  say,  Come  here,  sir.  He  does  not 
know  what  this  means,  but  you  show  him  by  pulling  on  the  bridle 
a  little,  which  he  will  obey  by  moving  towards  you  a  few  steps. 
This  movement  you  thank  him  by  stepping  forward  and  giving 
him  a  little  apple  or  a  few  kernels  of  corn,  and  caressing  him 
gently;  then  repeat  in  the  same  way,  rewarding  him  as  before, 
and  so  continue  until  he  will  walk  up  to  you  readily  when  you 
crack  the  whip,  or  say,  come  here,  sir,  which  he  will  soon  learn 
to  do.  Each  time  he  comes  to  you,  talk  to  him  kindly,  and  do 
not  fail  to  give  him  his  little  reward  of  corn,  apple,  oats,  or 
something  of  the  kind,  which  he  likes.  You  can  now  take  off  his 
halter  and  turn  him  loose,  and  repeat  until  he  fully  comprehends 
that  the  way  to  avoid  the  whip  is  to  come  to  you,  which,  with 
the  encouragement  of  rewarding,  will  soon  inspire  his  fullest 
confidence,  and  he  will  come  to  you  and  follow  like  a  dog. 

Be  very  cautious  about  the  use  of  the  whip  or  harsh  language, 
remembering  that  perfect,  cheerful  obedience  is  your  object,  and 
that  can  be  secured  only  by  great  patience  and  gentleness. 

TO  MAKE  A  BOW. 
Take  a  pin  in  your  right  hand,  between  the  thumb  and  fore- 
finger, and  stand  up  before  but  little  to  the  left  of  your  horse. 
Then  prick  him  on  the  breast  very  lightly,  as  if  a  fly  biting, 
which  to  relieve  he  will  bring  down  his  head,  which  you  will 
accept  as  yes,  and  for  which  you  will  reward  by  caressing  and 
feeding  as  before.  Then  repeat  and  so  continue  until  he  will 
bring  his  head  down  the  moment  he  sees  the  least  motion  of  your 
hand  towards  his  breast,  or  substitute  some  signal  which  he  will 
understand  readily. 

TO  SAY  NO. 

Stand  by  your  horse  near  the  shoulder,  holding  the  same  pin 
in  your  hand,  with  which  prick  him  lightly  on  the  withers,  and 
to  drive  which  away  he  will  shake  his  head.  You  then  caress 
as  before,  and  repeating,  until  he  will  shake  his  head  at  the  least 
indication  of  your  touching  him  with  the  pin ;  you  can  train 
your  horse  so  nicely  in  this  way  in  a  short  time  as  to  cause  him 
to  shake  his  head  or  bow  by  merely  turning  the  hand  a  little,  or 
moving  it  slightly  towards  him. 

TO  LIB  DOWN. 
.    To  teach  a  horse  how  to  do  this  trick  quickly,  you  must  lay 
him  down  two   or  three  times,  or  as  often  as  you  will  find  it 
necessary  to  make  him  understand  your  object.     If  an  old  horse, 
strap  the  near  fore  leg  up  to  the  arm,  then  take  your  little  strap, 


I  15 

previously  used  to  tamper  your  colt  with,  and  place  over  the 
back  and  strap  around  the  off  fore  foot,  below  the  fetlock.  Then 
take  the  bridle  rein  firmly  in  your  left  hand,  about  eighteen  inches 
from  the  head,  and  pull  it  a  little  towards  you.  The  moment 
he  steps  pull  upon  the  strap  over  the  body,  which  will  bring  the 
horse  on  his  knees.  Hold  him  quietly,  at  the  same  time  talking 
to  him  gently.  When  he  springs,  pull  sharply  with  the  Jeft 
hand,  and  the  same  instant  pull  down  with  the  right,  which  will 
swing  him  around  you  and  prevent  his  rising  high  enough  to 
injure  his  knees  by  the  momentum  of  the  body  in  coming  down. 
By  being  gentle,  the  horse  will  usually  lie  down  in  a  short  time. 
When  down,  treat  your  horse  with  the  greatest  attention  and 
kindness.  After  holding  him  down  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  per- 
mit him  to  get  up.  Repeat  this  lesson  untill  he  will  come  down 
readily.  Then  use  only  the  strap  over  the  back,  aiid  which  have 
on  the  near  foot,  and  bring  him  on  his  knees  gently,  when  he 
will  soon  lie  down.  When  he  will  come  on  his  knees  readily  by 
taking  up  the  foot  in  this  way,  take  up  the  foot  with  the  hand, 
asking  him  to  lie  down.  He  will  soon  come  down.  When  he 
will  come  on  his  kness  readily  by  taking  up  the  foot  with  the 
hand,  simply  stoop  as  if  intending  to  take  it  up,  saying,  lie  down, 
sir.  Then  make  him  come  down  by  a  motion  of  the  hand,  and, 
finally,  by  simply  telling  him  to  lie  down.  If  a  colt,  use  but 
the  single  strap  over  the  body  at  first,  which  will  soon  cause  him 
to  come  on  his  knees.  In  teaching  a  horse  to  lie  down,  be  gentle, 
caress  and  reward  him  for  lying  down,  and  your  horse  compre- 
hending what  you  want,  and  finding  himself  paid  for  compliance, 
will  soon  be  as  anxious  to  get  down  for  the  reward  as  you  are  to 
have  him  do  so. 

TO  SIT  UP. 

When  your  horse  will  lie  down  readily,  you  can  then  teach 
him  to  sit  up,  like  a  dog,  easily.  If  young,  and  not  very  heavy 
and  strong,  you  can  easily  prevent  his  getting  up  without  tying 
down.  First  cause  him  to  lie  down,  having  on  him  a  common 
bridle,  with  the  reins  over  the  neck,  then  step  behind  him  and 
place  the  right  foot  firmly  upon  the  tail,  the  reins  in  your  hands. 
Then  say,  get  up,  sir. 

The  horse,  rising  from  a  recumbent  position,  first  turns  on  his 
belly,  throws  out  his  forward  feet  and  raises  himself  on  them, 
springs  forward  and  rises  on  his  hind  feet.  Now,  standing  upon 
his  tail  firmly,  and  pulling  back  upon  the  reins  when  he  attempts 
to  spring  forward  and  up,  will  prevent  his  doing  so,  and  you 
hold  him  sitting  up. 


16 

Hold  him  firmly  a  few  seconds,  talking  to  him  kindly,  before 
permitting  him  to  rise  on  his  feet.  Repeat  a  few  times,  when, 
instead  of  springing  up,  he  will  sit  on  his  haunches  a  short  time, 
which  you  are  to  accept  as  complying  with  your  wishes.  Always 
say,  "  Sit  up,  sir,"  every  time,  and  hold  him  in  this  position  as 
long  as  he  will  bear,  by  fondling  and  feeding  him  with  some- 
thingK^e  likes,  from  the  hand,  and  your  horse  will  soon  learn  to 
sit  up  for  you  as  long  as  you  please. 

But  if  your  horse  is  heavy  and  strong,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
resort  to  other  means  to  hold  him  down  at  first.  This  you  do 
by  putting  on  his  neck  a  common  collar  and  causing  him  to  lie 
down.  Then  fasten  a  piece  of  rope,  or  a  rein,  to  each  hind  foot 
and  bring  forward  through  the  collar  and  draw  up  close,  which 
will  bring  the  hind  feet  well  forward.  Then  step  behind,  as 
before,  and  when  he  attempts  to  rise  on  his  hind  feet  he  finds  it 
impossible  to  do  so,  because  you  hold  them  firmly  with  those 
straps.  Repeat  two  or  three  times,  when  it  will  not  be  necessary 
to  resort  to  such  force. 

TO  TEACH  YOUR  HORSE  TO  KISS  YOU. 

Teach  him  first  to  take  an  apple  out  of  your  hand.  Then 
gradually  raise  the  hand  nearer  your  mouth,  at  each  reception, 
until  you  require  him  to  take  it  from  your  mouth,  holding  it  with 
the  hand,  telling  him  at  the  same  time  to  kiss  you.  He  will 
soon  learn  to  reach  his  nose  up  to  your  mouth ;  first  to  get  his 
apple,  but  finally  because  commanded  to  do  so.  Simply  repeat 
until  your  horse  understands  the  trick  thoroughly. 

TO  SHAKE  HANDS. 

Tie  a  short  strap,  or  piece  of  cord,  to  the  forward  foot,  below 
the  fetlock.  Stand  directly  before  the  horse,  holding  the  end  of 
this  strap  or  cord  in  your  hand,  then  say,  "shake  hands,  sir," 
and  immediately  after  commanding  him  to  do  so,  pull  upon  the 
Btrap,  which  will  bring  his  foot  forward,  and  which  you  are  to 
accept  as  shaking  hands,  thanking  him  for  it  by  caressing  and 
feeding,  and  so  repeat  until,  when  you  make  the  demand,  he  will 
bring  the  foot  forward  in  anticipation  of  having  it  pulled  up. 
This  is  a  very  easy  trick  to  teach  a  horse.  By  a  little  practice, 
a  horse  may  be  easily  trained  to  approa.ch,  make  a  bow,  shake 
hands  and  follow  like  a  dog,  lie  down,  ^it  up,  &c.,  which  make 
him  appear  both  polite  and  intelligent. 

Never  lose  j^Qurage  or  confidence  in  your  ability,  because 
you  may  not  bring  about  good  results  easily.     To  accomplish 


17 

any  thing  of  importance,  remember,  requires  no  ordinary  resolu- 
tion and  perseverance.  There  would  be  no  credit  or  importance 
attached  to  mastering  and  managing  bad  horses,  if  not  difficult 
and  apparently  dangerous.  No  duty  requires  more  firmness  of 
purpose  in  the  control  of  the  passions,  or  more  fidelity  to  the 
principles  of  kindness  and  truth,  than  that  of  horsemanship. 

If  you  would  be  a  really  successful  horseman,  you  must  never 
seem  to  forget,  by  your  conduct,  that  you  are  a  man,  and  that 
your  real  superiority  over  the  animal,  consists  in  the  prudent 
exercise  of  your  reasoning  powers.  Brute  force  is  not  your 
forte,  and  the  instant  you  give  away  to  passion,  your  reason 
must  yield  to  the  control  of  blind  instinct,  and  you  at  once 
abdicate  your  intellectual  superiority  over  the  animal.  Try  to 
prove,  by  the  example  of  your  actions  in  the  performance  of  the 
duty,  that  to  be  a  good  horseman,  requires  higher  qualifications 
of  fitness,  than  that  of  the  huckstering,  dishonesty  and  depravity 
so  generally  evinced  in  the  conduct  of  those  claiming  the  dis- 
tinction. 


SHOEING. 


If  we  examine  the  horse's  foot  while  in  the  natural  state,.  It 
will  be  found  to  be  almost  round,  and  very  elastic  at  the  heftls. 
The  frog,  broad,  plump,  and  of  a  soft  yielding  character;  the 
commissures,  open  and  well  defined,  and  the  sole  concave  ;  the 
outside  of  the  crust,  from  the  heels  to  the  toe,  increased  from  a 
slight  level  to  an  angle  of  about  forty-five  degrees.  Conse- 
quently, as  the  hoof  grows,  it  becomes  wider  and  longer  in  pro- 
portion to  the  amount  of  horn  secreted,  and  the  narrower  and 
shorter  in  proportion  to  the  amount  of  horn  cut  away  from  the 
ground  surface.  If  a  shoe  were  fitted  nicely  and  accurately  to 
the  foot  after  being  dressed  down  well,  it  would  be  found  too 
narrow  and  short  for  the  same  foot  after  the  lapse  of  a  few  weeks. 
Now  if  an  unyielding  shoe  of  iron  is  nailed  firmly  to  this  nat- 
urally enlarging  and  elastic  hoof,  it  prevents  its  natural  freedom 
of  expansion  almost  wholly,  and  does  not,  as  the  foot  grows 
down,  allow  it  to  become  wider  at  the  quarters,  in  proportion 
to  the  quantity  of  horn  grown,  as  befoTe  being  shod ;  and  con- 
sequently, the  foot  changes,  from  the  continued  effect  of  the 
restraint,  from  an  almost  round,  healthy  foot,  to  a  contracted 
and  unhealthy  condition,  as  generally  se^n  in  horses  shod  for  a 
few  years.  The  principles  which  should  govern  in  shoeing,  are 
few  and  simple,  and  it  is  surprising  that  a  matter  involving  such 
serious  consequences,  should  be  conducted  with  so  little  consid- 
eration. The  object  of  the  shoer  should  be,  in  trimming  and 
preparing  the  hoof  for  the  shoe,  to  keep  the  foot  natural,  and 
this  involves,  first,  the  cutting  away  of  any  undue  accumulation 
of  horn  affecting  in  the  least  its  health  and  freedom. 

Second.  To  carry  out  in  the  form  of  the  shoe,  that  of  the  foot 
as  nearly  as  possible. 

Third.  To  fit  and  fasten  the  shoe  to  the  foot  so  as  to  interfere 
least  with  its  health  and  elasticity. 

The  object  in  preparing  the  foot  for  the  shoe,  should  be  to 
remove  any  undue  accumulation  of  horn,  designed  to  prevent  its 
natural  bearing,  and  the  free,  healthy  action  of  its  parts,  and 
requires  the  cutting  away  of  about  the  proportion  contact  with 
the  ground  would  have  worn  off,  or  so  much  as  had  grown  sinc*^ 


19 

being  shod  last.  If  the  shoes  have  been  on  a  month,  then  the 
proportion  of  horn  secreted  in  the  time  is  to  be  removed.  If 
on  two  months,  then  the  proportion  of  two  months'  growth.  No 
definite  rule  can  be  given,. the  judgment  must  be  governed  by 
the  circumstances  of  the  case.  The  stronger  and  more  rapid 
the  growth  of  the  foot,  the  more  must  be  cut  away  ;  and  the 
weaker  and  less  horn  produced,  the  less,  to  the  extreme  of  sim- 
ply leveling  the  crust  a  little,  the  better  to  conform  to  the  shoe. 
There  is,  generally,  a  far  more  rapid  growth  of  horn  at  the  toe, 
than  at  either  the  heels  or  the  quarters ;  more,  therefore,  will 
require  to  be  taken  oif  the  toe  than  off  the  other  parts.  There- 
fore shorten  the  toe  and  lower  the  heels  until  you  succeed  in 
bringing  down  the  bearing  surface  of  the  hoof  upon  the  shoe,  to 
almost  a  level  with  the  live  horn  of  the  sole.  Be  careful  to 
make  the  heels  level. 

Having  lowered  the  crust  to  the  necessary  extent  with  the 
buttress  or  knife,  smooth  it  down  level  with  the  rasp.  The  sole 
and  frog  detach  the  old  horn  by  exfoliation,  as  it  becomes  super- 
abundant. The  sole,  therefore,  would  not  need  paring  were  it 
not  for  the  restraining  effect  of  the  shoe  upon  the  general  func- 
tions of  the  foot,  which  is  liable  to  prevent  such  detachment  of 
the  horn. 

When  this  is  the  case,  the  sole  should  be  properly  dressedout 
with  an  English  shave,  the  end  of  which  is  shaped  like  an  iron 
used  at  saw  mills  to  mark  and  measure  boards.  The  buttress  is 
too  large  and  square-edged  to  dress  out  so  concave  a  surface 
properly,  and  unless  great  care  is  exercised,  it  will  not  only 
penetrate  through  the  sole  in  some  places,  but  leave  others 
entirely  neglected.  While  a  good  workman  may  work  well  with 
almost  any  kind  of  tool,  such  have,  also,  the  faculty  of  adapting 
tools  to  the  work.  A  horse's  foot  is  not  to  be  hacked  and  cut, 
as  if  only  a  block  of  lifeless  wood,  and  if  even  a  lifeless  machine, 
what  care  would  be  found  necessary  to  preserve  its  harmony  of 
action  complete.  The  buttress  does  not  seem  to  me,  to  be  at  all 
adapted  to  dressing  out  the  sole,  and  should  not  be  used  for  that 
purpose.  While  I  am  obliged  to  find  fault  with  the  carelessness 
ot  blacksmiths  in  this  respect,  it  is  with  the  spirit  of  kindness, 
sensible  that  I  am  myself  only  a  dull  pupil  in  the  work  of  reform, 
and  perhaps  deserving  severe  criticism. 

I  would  be  particular,  also,  in  impressing  the  necessity  of  not 
confounding  the  bars  with  the  substance  of  the  sole,  and  cutting 
them  dowji  to  a  common  level  with  the  sole.  Any  man  of 
common  sense  can  see  that  the  bearing  of  the  bars  should  be 
equal  to  the  outside  of  the  crust  upon  the  shoe,  and  that  they 


20 

offer  a  decided  resistance  to  the  contraction  of  the  heels.  The 
cutting  away  of  the  bars,  to  give  the  heel  an  open  appearance, 
is  inexcusable,  and  should  not  be  done. 

In  a  natural,  healthy  condition,  the  frog  has  a  line  of  bearing 
with  the  hoof,  and  by  its  elastic  nature,  acts  as  a  safeguard  to 
the  delicate  machinery  of  the  foot  immediately  over  it,  and  helps 
to  preserve  the  foot  in  its  natural  state,  by  keeping  the  heels 
spread.  It  seems  to  be  wisely  intended  to  give  life  and  health 
to  the  foot.  Permitting  the  heels  to  grow  down,  with  the  addi- 
tion of  high-heeled  shoes,  raises  the  frog  from  its  natural  position 
and  causes  it  to  shrink  and  harden,  and  bears,  in  consequence, 
an  important  influence  in  setting  up  a  diseased  action  that  usually 
results  in  contraction  of  the  foot.  If  the  heels  are  square  and 
high,  and  the  hoof  presents  rather  a  long,  narrow  appearance, 
and  is  hollow  on  the  bottom,  there  is  a  state  of  contraction  going 
on,  and  you  mus-t  not  hesitate  to  dress  down  thoroughly.  Do 
not  hesitate  because  the  foot  will  appear  small ;  cut  away  until 
you  are  well  down  to  a  level  with  the  live  horn  of  the  sole,  and 
if  the  foot  is  weak,  use  the  same  prudence  in  not  cutting  it  away 
too  much.  The  shoer  must  also  bear  in  mind  that  the  sole  must 
not  rest  upon  the  shoe.  The  sole,  when  not  clogged  with  old 
horn,  acts  as  a  spring  to  the  weight  of  the  horse,  and  if  it  rests 
upon  the  shoe,  an  inflammation  may  be  caused  by  the  pressure 
of  the  coffin  bone  upon  the  sensitive  laming,  which  are  liable,  in 
consequence,  to  be  so  bruised  as  to  cause  soreness  and  inflam- 
mation. The  efi'ects  of  such  bruises  are  most  common  at  the 
angle  of  the  inner  heel,  where  the  descending  heel  of  the  cofiin 
bone,  forcibly  pressing  the  soft,  sensible  sole,  upon  the  horny 
sole,  is  apt  to  rupture  one  or  more  of  the  small  blood  vessels  of 
the  delicate  fleshy  substance  connecting  the  crust  to  the  coffin 
bone  of  the  part,  causing  red  spots,  called  corns.  Let  the  foot 
be  so  dressed  down,  and  the  shoe  so  approximate,  that  the  bear- 
ing will  come  evenly  upon  the  crust  all  the  way  roumd,  without 
the  sole  touching  the  shoe.  This  requires  the  crust  to  be  dressed 
level,  and  though  well  down  to  the  live  horn  of  the  sole,  it 
should  always  be  left  a  little  higher.  The  corners  between  the 
bars  and  crust  should  be  well  pared  out,  so  that  there  is  no 
danger  of  the  sole  resting  upon  the  shoe. 

Presuming  that  I  have  said  enough  on  the  subject  of  paring, 
I  will  now  consider  the 

SHOE. 

The  main  object  should  be  to  have  the  shoe  so  formed  as  to 
size,  weight,  fitting  and  fastening,  as  to  combine  the  most 
advantages  of  protection,  and  preserve  the  natural  tread  of  the 


21 

foot  for  best ;  in  weight,  it  should  be  proportioned  to  the  work 
or  employment  of  the  horse.  The  foot  should  not  be  loaded 
with  more  iron  than  is  necessary  to  preserve  it.  If  the  hoof  is 
light,  the  shoe  should  be  light  also ;  but  if  the  horse  works 
principally  on  the  road,  his  shoes  should  be  rather  heavy.  In 
its  natural  state,  the  foot  has  a  concave  sole  surface,  which 
seems  ,to  oifer  the  greatest  fulcrum  of  resistance  to  the  horse 
when  traveling.  Most  of  the  shoes  I  exhibit  are  fashioned  on 
this  principle,  and,  aside  from  the  advantages  of  lightness  and 
strength,  they  are  considered  to  be  an  improvement  upon  the 
common  flat  shoe. 

Geo.  H.  Dodd,  veterinary  surgeon,  said  lately  in  a  letter  on 
shoeing:  "The  action  of  concave  feet  may  be  compared  tro 
that  of  the  claws  of  a  cat,  or  the  nails  on  the  fingers  and  toes 
of  man  ;  the  nails  and  toes  are  the  fulcrum  :  they  grasp,  as  it 
were,  the  object  with  which  they  come  in  contact,  and  thus  they 
secure  a  fulcrum  of  resistance  when  travelling  or  grasping. 
Now  in  order  to  preserve  the  natural  mechanical  action  of  the 
horn  and  sole,  the  ground  surface  of  the  shoe  must  correspond 
exactly  with  the  ground  surface  of  the  foot ;  that  is,  the  ground 
surface  of  the  shoe  must  be  beveled,  cup  fashion  ;  its  outer  edge 
being  prominent,  corresponds  to  the  lower  and  outer  rim  of  the 
hoof;  while  the  shoe  being  hollow,  it  resembles  the  natural 
concavity  of  the  sole  of  the  foot. 

"  No  matter  what  may  be  the  form  of  the  foot,  whether  it  be 
high  or  low  heeled,  contracted  at  the  heels,  lengthened  or  short- 
ened at  the  toe,  or  having  a  concave  or  convex  sole,  it  matters 
not,  the  ground  surface  of  the  shoe  must  be  concave.  In  every 
other  part  of  the  shoe,  alterations,  deviations  from  any  given 
rule  or  form  are  needed,  in  consequence  of  the  ever  varying 
form  of  the  foot,  and  the  condition  of  the  same,  both  as  regards 
health  and  disease;  but  the  sole  of  the  foot  being  concave, 
presents  a  pattern  for  the  ground  surface  of  the  shoe,  which 
the  smith,  with  all  his  skill,  cannot  improve  on,  and  if  all  such 
craftsmen  were  to  follow  this  pattern  more  closely  than  they  do, 
there  would  be  fewer  accidents  in  falling,  and  a  less  number  of 
lame  horses." 

The  shoe  should  be  of  an  equal  thickness  all  the  way  round, 
perfectly  level  on  the  top  side,  and  concave  on  the  ground 
surface.  I  cannot  see  the  propriety,  as  given  by  a  standard 
author,  of  seating  all  the  shoes  alike,  and  of  carrying  it  well 
back  to  the  heel.  Seating  appears  to  be  necessary  only  for  flat- 
footed  horses,  or  the  inside  edge  of  the  shoe  must  be  lowered 
from   the  possible  bearing  of  the  sole,  and   enough   to  run  a 


22 

pricker  round  between  the  shoe  and  hoof,  to  remove  any  gravel 
or  foreign  matter  that  may  find  a  lodgment  between  the  sole 
and  shoe.  If  there  is  much  space  between  the  sole  and  shoe, 
it  invites  the  accumulation  of  gravel  and  other  substances  inju- 
rious to  the  foot.  If  the  seating  is  carried  well  back,  and  the 
shoe  so  wide  that  the  heels,  instead  of  bearing  on  a  level  surface, 
as  they  should,  come  down  upon  this  inclined  plane,  it  tends  to 
crowd  them  together.  If  the  shoe  is  not  wide  in  web,  and  the  foot 
strong  and  arched,  it  may  be  made  entirely  level  on  the  top.  At 
all  events,  that  portion  upon  which  rests  the  heels  and  crust, 
must  be  level,  and  should  be  fitted  accurately.  The  shoe  should 
be  continued  completely  round  towards  the  heels  as  far  as  the 
crust  extends,  as  large  as  the  full,  unrasped  hoof;  but  no  part 
must  project  beyond  it,  excepting  at  the  extreme  of  the  heels. 
The  expansion  of  the  heels  and  the  growth  of  the  foot,  require 
that  the  shoe  should  be  long  enough  and  wide  enough  at  the 
heels,  to  allow  for  the  natural  growth  of  the  foot,  in  the  time 
it  is  calculated  the  shoe  should  be  on  before  being  reset ;  for  as 
the  foot  enlarges,  the  shoe  is  brought  forward,  until  it  looses  its 
original  proportion,  and  becomes  too  short  and  narrow.  The 
shoe  may  be  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch*  wider  and  longer  than 
the  extreme  bearing  of  the  heels.  The  nail  holes  should  be 
punched  coarse,  and  in  the  centre  of  the  web.  If  the  hind 
shoe,  four  on  the  side  and  well  forward ;  if  the  forward  shoe, 
four  on  the  outside,  and  two  or  three  well  forward  in  the  inside 
toe,  as  found  necessary  to  retain  the  shoe.  The  manner  of 
fastening  the  shoe,  is  what  really  affects  the  foot,  and  which 
requires  the  most  speciajl  attention  in  shoeing.  For  the  foot 
being  elastic,  expands  in  the  same  degree  to  the  weight  of  the 
body  on  the  rough,  that  it  does  on  the  nicely  fitted  shoe.  It  is 
the  number  and  position  of  the  nails  that  really  affect  the  foot. 
If  they  are  placed  well  back  in  the  quarters,  four  on  the  side, 
as  is  common,  the  crust  is  held  as  firmly  to  this  unyielding  shoe, 
as  if  in  a  vise,  which  utterly  prevents  the  free  action  necessary 
to  its  health.  Inflammation  of  the  sensitive  laminae  is  produced, 
which  causes  contraction,  and  the  consequent  derangement  of 
the  whole  foot.  No  matter  how  well  shaped  a  boot  may  be,  if 
it  is  too  short  and  small  for  the  free  action  of  the  foot  when  in 
use,  it  is  a  cause  of  continual  torment,  and  induces  the  irritation 
of  inverted  toe  nails  and  corns  of  the  most  aggravating  character. 
The  principle  is  precisely  the  same  in  shoeing  horses,  if  the 
free,  natural  expansion  of  the  foot  is  prevented  by  the  shoe 
being  so  nailed  to  the  hoof  as  to  obstruct  its  expansion  and  the 
possibility  of  the  quarters  spreading  in  proportion  to  the  growth 


23 

of  the  hoof,  there  must  result  an  irritation  of  the  fleshy  substance 
between  the  crust  and  coffin  bone,  that  ultimately  sets  up  so 
much  diseased  action  of  the  parts,  as  to  cause  contraction  and 
navicular  disease.  Now  shoes  may  be  securely  fastened  without 
causing  such  mischief,  if  the  following  method  of  nailing  be 
observed : 

Drive  four  nails  on  the  outer  side  of  the  foot,  same  as  common, 
while  you  drive  but  two  or  three  well  forward  in  the  toe  of  the 
opposite,  which  leaves  the  inner  quarter  virtually  free  and 
independent  of  the  shoe ;  for  the  outside  of  the  foot  being  the 
only  part  fastened,  carries  the  whole  shoe  with  it  at  every 
expansion,  while  the  inner  side  being  unattached,  expands 
independently  of  it,  and  the  foot  is  left  as  nearly  as  possible,  in 
a  state  of  nature,  so  far  as  its  powers  of  expansion  is  concerned. 
The  reader  may  ask,  will  this  style  of  nailing  hold  shoes  on  the 
feet  of  horses  of  all  work  ?  I  answer  yes.  Experience  has 
fully  demonstrated  that  seven  nails  will  hold  shoes  on  ordinary 
feet,  for  any  purpose,  if  the  shoes  are  properly  fitted,  for  a 
period  of  from  four  to  seven  weeks,  which  is  as  long  as  shoes 
ought  to  be  on  without  resetting. 

If  the  shoes  are  made  with  little  clips  at  the  toes  to  prevent 
being  pushed  under  the  toes,  less  nailing  will  be  required.  If 
seven  nails  are  found  to  be  necessary,  you  can  drive  three  in  a 
space  of  an  inch  and  a  quarter,  well  forward  in  the  toe,  though 
in  most  cases  two  will  be  found  to  answer  the  purpose.  Turn 
down  the  clinchers  strongly.  Nothing  should  be  done  for  what 
is  called  fancy.  The  hoof  should  never  be  rasped  or  filed  above 
the  clinchers.  The  hoof  is  covered  by  a  peculiar  enamel  that 
prevents  the  too  rapid  evaporation  of  moisture  from  the  horn, 
and  must  not  be  disturbed.  The  practice  of  rasping,  filing  and 
sand-papering  the  hoof  to  make  it  look  nice,  only  produces 
mischief,  and  should  not  be  permitted. 

Horses  kept  for  light  driving,  and  irregular  work,  and 
particularly  those  having  rather  square,  upright  heels,  should 
be  shod  on  the  one-sided  nailing  principle,  as  the  feet  of  such 
horses  are  much  disposed  to  contraction.  So  far  as  observation 
and  experience  teach  me,  I  find  proper  attention  to  paring  down 
the  feet  and  fastening  the  shoe,  so  as  not  to  interfere  with  the 
free  expansion  of  the  hoof,  as  above,  will  remedy  contraction  ; 
though  attention  to  growing  down  the  crust,  and  the  application 
of  shoes  that  are  slightly  convex,  or  beveled  out,  so  as  to  have 
a  tendency  to  spread  the  heels  when  the  weight  of  the  body  is 
thrown  upon  the  foot,  and  fastening  on  the  principle  of  the 
inside  quarter  being  left  free,  is  regarded  as  much  better.     But 


24 

the  blacksmith  must  be  a  good  workman  to  fashion  and  fit  a 
shoe  in  this  way  properly.  The  nails  should  not  be  driven 
higher  in  the  crust  than  seven-eighths  of  an  inch,  and  not  so 
deep  as  to  possibly  strike  through  to  the  quick.  If  the  foot  is 
light,  and  shows  a  thin,  delicate  crust,  the  nails  should  be  small, 
and  not  driven  high  or  deep  into  the  horn.  As  a  rule,  the  fewer 
and  smaller  the  nails  used,  provided  they  secure  the  shoe  to  the 
foot  with  safety,  the  better.  Shoes  should  be  re-set,  or  replaced, 
as  often  as  once  a  month ;  though  in  some  cases  it  may  not  be 
necessary  to  re-set  quite  so  often.  It  is  a  positive  necessity  at 
six,  and  must  not  be  neglected  longer  than  seven  or  eight  weeks. 

INTERFERING  SHOES. 

To  prevent  interfering,  know  what  part  of  the  foot  hits  the 
opposite  ankle.  This  you  can  do  by  wrapping  the  ankle  with 
a  rag  nicely,  which  color  with  some  kind  of  coloring  matter, 
over  where  the  opposite  foot  hits.  Then  drive  the  horse  until 
you  can  discover,  by  some  of  this  coloring  matter  adhering, 
what  portion  of  the  crust  hits  the  ankle.  Remove  this  portion 
of  the  crust,  and  have  the  shoe  set  well  under  the  foot,  but 
carefully  fitted,  so  as  to  support  the  foot  safely  by  the  bearing 
of  the  bar  and  heel.  The  hoof  should  be  pared  lowest  on  the 
outside,  to  turn  the  ankle,  that  the  outer  hoof  may  pass  clear. 
Yet  if  the  inside  sole  is  not  dressed,  the  rim  soon  breaks,  and 
the  inside  is  found  to  be  actually  lower  than  the  outside.  Shoes, 
to  prevent  interfering,  should  be  light  and  of  narrow  web  on 
the  inside,  with  three  nail  holes  near  the  toe.  They  should  be 
straight  at  the  point  where  they  come  in  contact  with  the  ankle 
of  the  opposite  leg.  By  adhering  strictly  to  this  principle  of 
paring  the  foot,  and  fitting  and  fastening  of  the  shoe,  you  will 
prevent  a  recurrence  of  the  difiiculty. 

Shoes  to  prevent  over-reaching,  should  be  long,  and  for  the 
forward  feet,  heavy,  especially  at  the  heels ;  and  for  the  hind 
feet,  light,  with  heavy  toes.  The  hoof  should  be  well  pared  at 
the  toe. 

TO  CURE  CORNS. 

Cut  the  horn  well  down,  but  not  to  the  quick ;  fit  the  shoe  so 
that  it  does  not  press  upon  the  part.  Then  saturate  well  with 
pine  or  sap  „um,  which  is  found  exuding  from  pine  trees  when 
cut.  Fill  the  part  nicely  with  tow,  and  put  on  the  shoe,  remem- 
bering that  the  shoe  must  be  so  fitted  as  not  to  oblige  the  part 
to  support  but  very  slightly,  if  any,  the  weight  of  the  horse. 
This  remedy  was   given  me   by  an  intelligent   shoer,   and   is 


25 

certainly  good.     Horses  with  corns  must  be  oftener  and  more 
carefully  shod  than  those  free  from  them. 

In  shoeing,  strive  to  keep  the  form  of  the  foot  natural.  If 
the  hoofs  are  not  flat  and  weak,  the  shoes  should  set  out  evenly 
to  the  edge  of  the  crust  under  the  toe.  Let  the  nails  be  driven 
well  forward  in  the  toe,  or  what  is  much  better,  be  placed  well 
round  in  the  outside  quarter,  and  as  far  forward  in  the  toe  of 
the  inside  as  possible,  and  as  few  as  will  be  found  by  experience 
necessary  to  retain  the  shoe.  Be  positive  in  the  enforcement 
of  this  rule;  and  lastly,  have  the  shoes  re-set  at  least  once 
every  six  or  seven  weeks. 


RECIPES. 


The  following  Recipes  have  been  gathered  from  sources  enti* 
tied  to  the  fullest  confidence,  as  remedies  of  great  value,  and 
some  of  them  at  an  unusual  cost,  and  they  are  presented  with 
the  hope  of  being  fully  appreciated. 

It  is  well  to  remember,  that  to  keep  horses  in  health,  is  much 
more  important,  less  troublesome,  and  requires  less  skill  than  to 
cure  sick  ones.  Abuse,  overwork  and  exposure,  should  be 
guarded  against,  if  the  serious  conaequences  of  inflammation  of 
the  lungs,  colic,  &c.,  are  to  be  avoided;  and  should  your  horse 
be  sick,  it  is  always  best  to  be  cautious  about  doctoring  too  much, 
or  until  you  are  sure  of  what  is  necessary  to  be  done, 

FOR  INFLAMMATION   OF  THE  LUNGS,  IN  A  HORSE. 

First,  a  thorough  bleeding ;  then  would  give  tine,  veratrum 
viride,  1-2  oz. ;  laudanum,  4  ozs. ;  tinct.  aconite,  1-4  oz. ;  shake 
well  together,  and  give  a  teaspoonful  every  three  or  four  hours, 
in  some  water  well  sweetened  ;  and  if  it  does  not  bring  down 
the  pulse,  the  dose  can  be  gradually  increased  to  a  tablespoonful, 
and  soon  as  the  horse  recovers  so  as  to  eat  and  lie  down  naturally, 
would  keep  him  on  hay  alone,  perhaps  with  a  few  carrots  or 
potatoes,  and  daily  give  a  bran  mash  with  saltpetre,  crude  anti- 
mony and  sulphur,  for  ten  or  fifteen  days,  and  you  will  prevent 
dropsy  of  the  chest,  which  is  a  sequel  of  that  disease. 


26 

FOR  COLIC  IN  HORSES. 

Sulph.  ether,  1  pint ;  aromatic  spirits  ammonia,  1  pint ;  sweet 
spirits  nitre,  2  pints ;  opium,  1-4  lb. ;  asafcetida,  (pure,)  1-2  lb. ; 
camphor,  1-2  lb. ;  put  in  a  large  bottle,  let  stand  14  days,  with 
frequent  shaking,  and  it  will  be  fit  for  use.  Dose,  2  ounces 
every  2,  3,  or  4  hours,  until  the  horse  is  relieved.  Should  be 
given  in  water  well  sweetened. 

Another  Remedy. — One  oz.  laudanum ;  1  oz.  sweet  spirits  of 
nitre  ;  1  oz.  tinct.  asafoetida ;  1  teaspoonful  capsicum ;  from  2 
to  3  ozs.  carbonate  soda ;  1-2  pint  whiskey  ;  1-2  pint  water. 
Mix  and  give  at  one  dose,  and  if  no  better  in  twenty-five  min- 
utes, repeat  half  dose. 

FOR  SPAVIN. 

Five  ozs.  euphorbium  ;  2  ozs.  Spanish  flies,  (fine  ;)  1  oz.  iodine 
— dissolved  with  alcohol ;  1-2  oz.  red  precipitate  ;  1  oz.  corrosive 
sublim.  ;  1-2  oz.  quicksilver ;  6  ozs.  hog's  lard ;  6  ozs.  white 
turpentine  ;  1-4  lb.  verdigris.  Melt  the  lard  and  the  turpentine 
'together,  then  while  hot  add  all  together.  Mix  well;  when 
cold  fit  for  use.  Rub  it  in  thoroughly  on  the  spavin  every  day 
for  three  days,  then  wash  clean  with  soap-suds;  omit  for  three 
days,  and  then  repeat  for  three  days  again,  and  so  on  until  a 
perfect  cure  is  produced.  Should  it  blister,  use  it  more  cau- 
tiously. 

A  PREPARATION  FOR  BLOOD  SPAVIN. 

One  half  pound  of  blood-root,  1  qt.  of  alcohol,  2  ozs.  of 
tannin,  and  quarter  of  a  pound  of  alum.  Mix  and  let  it  stand, 
shaking  it  several  times  a  day,  till  the  strength  is  all  in  the 
alcohol,  and  bathe  the  spavin  twice  a  day,  rubbing  it  in  with 
the  hand. 

HEAVES. 

Take  smart- weed,  steep  it  in  boiling  water  till  the  strength  is 
all  out ;  give  one  quart  every  day,  mixed  with  bran  or  shorts, 
for  eight  or  ten  days.  Give  green  or  cut  feed,  wet  with  water, 
during  the  operation  and  it  will  cure. 

TO  COVER  HEAVES. 

Oil  tar,  1  oz. ;  oil  amber,  1  oz.  Mix,  and  give  15  or  20  drops 
in  feed  daily. 

FOR  STIFLE. 

First,  prepare  your  medicine.  Take  4  qts.  white  oak  bark — 
rasped  ;  put  it  into  8  qts.  water,  boil  2  qts.  ;  turn  off  the  liquid 


27 

while  hot,  and  add  a  three-pennj  paper  of  tobacco.  Now  let 
stand  until  a  little  above  blood  heat.  Now  heat  a  flat-iron  or 
a  brick,  then  proceed  immediately  to  put  the  stifle  in  its  place. 
Now  bathe  it  thoroughly  with  the  decoction  about  five  minutes, 
then  apply  your  flat-iron  as  near  as  the  animal  will  bear,  until 
all  absorlDed.  Then  give  the  animal  rest  for  one  hour,  and  if 
it  should  possibly  slip  out  again,  repeat  as  before,  observing  care 
about  straining  for  a  few  days. 

Another  Remedy. — One  oz.  sugar  of  lead ;  1  pint  alcohol. 
Mix,  and  apply  three  or  four  times  a  day,,  until  a  cure  is 
produced. 

SCRATCHES. 

Hydrate  of  potassa,  10  grs.  ;  pulvd.  nutgall,  1-2  cz.  ;  white 
lead,  ^  oz. ;  pulvd.  opium,  \  oz.  ;  hog's  lard,  \  lb. 

Another  Remedy. — One  quart  good  vinegar  ;  1-2  lb.  litharge. 
Mix,  and  simmer  down  to  half  the  quantity ;  strain  and  apply. 

FOR  WIND  GALLS. 

Olive  oil,  3  ozs. ;  nitric  acid,  1  oz.  Rubbed  in  as  much  daily 
or  every  second  or  third  day  as  it  will  bear  without  starting  the 
hair. 

GREASE. 

Two  ozs.  flour  sulphur ;  1-2  oz.  verdigris.  Mix  and  apply 
after  washing. 

TO  RECRUIT  A  HORSE  HIDE-BOUND,  OR  OTHERWISE  OUT  OF  SORTS. 

Nit.  potassa,  (or  saltpetre,)  4  ozs.  ;  crude  antimony,  1  oz.  ; 
sulphur,  3  ozs.  Nitrate  of  potassa  and  antimony  should  be 
finely  pulverized,  then  add  the  sulphur,  and  mix  them  well  to- 
gether. Dose,  a  table  spoonful  of  the  mixture  in  a  bran  mash, 
daily. 

MAGIC  LINIMENT. 

Two  ounces  oil  of  spike,  two  ounces  origanum,  two  ounces  of 
hemlock,  two  ounces  of  wormwood,  four  ounces  of  sweet  oil, 
two  ounces  spirits  ammonia,  two  ounces  of  gum  camphor,  two 
ounces  spirits  turpentine,  and  one  quart  of  proof  spirits,  nine 
per  cent.,  mix  well  together  and  bottle  tight.  For  sprains, 
bruises,  lameness,  &c.,  this  liniment  is  unsurpassed,  and  origin- 
ally cost,  (which  it  is  worth,)  one  hundred  dollars.  This  is  the 
same  liniment,  without  the  turpentine,  which  has  achieved  such 
wonderful  cures  for  human  ailments.  For  domestic  purposes, 
it  is  invaluable. 


28 

LINIMENT  FOR  OPEN  WOUNDS. 

Take  of  sulphate  of  copper,  (copperas,)  1  oz.  :  white  vitriol,  2 
ozs. ;  muriate  of  soda,  (salt,)  2  oz. ;  oil  linseed,  2  ozs.  ;  Orleans 
molasses,  8  ozs. ;  boil  over  a  slow  fire,  fifteen  minutes,  in  a 
pint  of  urine,  all  of  the  above  ingredients.  When  nearly  cold, 
add  one  oz.  of  oil  of  vitriol,  and  4  ozs.  of  spirits  of  turpen- 
tine, and  bottle  for  use. 

Apply  it  to  the  wound  with  a  quilL  which  will  soon  set  the 
wound  to  discharging,  and  perform  a  cure  in  a  few  days.  Be 
careful  to  keep  the  wound  covered,  either  by  a  bandage  or  a 
plaster.  Should  be  applied  once  or  twice  a  day,  ufitil  it  dis- 
charges freely. 

SIMPLE  LINIMENT. 

Put  into  spirits  of  turpentine,  all  the  camphor  gum  it  will 
cut,  when  for  ordinary  purposes  it  is  fit  for  use  ;  but  if  designed 
to  reduce  pain,  add  as  much  laudanum  as  there  is  turpentine. 
This  liniment  is  as  good  as  it  is  simple. 

COUGH  POWDERS. 
Camphor,   1   oz. ;  tartar  emetic,  1  oz.  ;  nit.  potassa,  2  ozs.  ; 
and  digitalis.  1  drachm,  if  you  choose. 

RECEIPE  FOR  MAKING  CONDITION  POWDERS. 
Take  one  pound  of  ginger,  one  pound  of  anisp  seed,  pulver- 
ized, one  ounce  of  fenugreek  seed,  two  ounces  of  ginseng  root 
pulverized,  one  ounce  of  the  seed  of  sumac  berries,  pulverized, 
one  ounce  of  antimony,  mix  it  with  a  pound  of  brown  sugar. 
This  is  excellent  for  coughs,  colds,  or  to  give  a  horse  an  appetite. 

ANTI-SPASMODIC  TINCTURE  FOR  MAN  OR  HOKSE. 

Oil  of  cajeput,  1  oz. ;  oil  of  cloves,  1  oz. ;  oil  of  pepper- 
mint, 1  oz. ;  oil  of  anise,  1  oz.  ;  alcohol,  1  quart.  Mix  all  well 
together  and  bottle  for  use.  Dose  for  a  horse,  1  oz.  every  15 
minutes,  in  a  little  whiskey  and  hot  water,  sweetened  with 
molasses  ;  continue  until  relieved.  Dose  for  a  man,  1  tea- 
spoonful. 

THRUSH. 

Cleanse  the  foot  out  well,  then  crowd  in  fine  salt  and  wash 
with  beef  brine. 

PHYSI()  BALL. 

Barbadoes  aloes,  1  lb.  ;  syrup  buckthorn,  3  ozs. ;  cod  liver 
oil,  3  ozSi ;  melt  the  whole  and  stir  till  cold.  In  winter,  add 
a  little  water  ;  make  into  eighteen  pills,  and  give  one  every 
four  hours  or  as  much  as  will  move  the  bowels. 


29 

DIURETIC  DROPS 

That  are  reliable  for  stoppage  of  water,  foul  water,  or  inflam- 
mation of  the  kidneys,  in  all  eases  : 

Take  of  sweet  spirits  of  nitre,  4  ozs. ;  balsam  copaiba,  2  ozs.  ; 
spirits  of  turpentine,  2  ozs. ;  oil  of  juniper,  2  ozs.  ;  gum  cam- 
phor, pulverized,  1  oz. ;  mix  all  together  and  shake  well ;  bottle, 
and  it  is  fit  for  use,  for  man  or  beast,  under  all  circumstances 
where  a  diuretic  is  required. 

Dose  :  For  a  horse,  one  ounce,  in  half  a  pint  of  milk,  once 
in  six  hours ;  for  a  man,  one  teaspoonful,  in  a  tablespoonful  of 
milk,  once  in  six  hours, 

Be  sure  to  shake  the  ingredients  up  well,  before  turning  out 
for  use. 

TO  CURE  HORSE  DISTEMPER. 

If  the  glands  of  the  neck  are  not  swollen  much,  give  half  a 
three  cent  paper  of  smoking  tobacco,  morning  and  evening  in 
a  warm  bran  mash,  and  give  no  hay,  but  a  little  fine  cut  straw, 
wet,  with  bran  mixed  in.  If  the  glands  of  the  neck  are  swollen, 
then  apply  a  warm  poultice  made  of  wheat  bran  and  hot  vinegar, 
changing  as  often  as  the  poultices  get  dry,  and  be  sure  and  get 
do\^n  all  you  can  of  flax-seed  tea,  or  slippery  elm  tea  will  ans- 
wer the  same  purpose,  and  let  this  be  his  constant  drink.  Be 
cautious  to  keep  the  horse  from  taking  cold  in  any  way,  and  keep 
on  a  blanket  and  thus  you  will  save  many  a  noble  animal.  Be 
cautious  never  to  bleed  your  horse  during  the  horse  distemper, 
nor  physic  him  any  more  than  what  you  will  be  able  to  do  with 
your  warm  bran  mash. 

REMEDY  FOR  BOTS. 

Which  will  remove  them  in  a  few  days  :  Take  of  oil  of  tur- 
pentine, 8  ozs.  ;  alcohol,  1  qt.  ;  mix  and  bottle  for  use.  Dose, 
five  ounces  in  the  horse's  feed,  once  a  day  for  eight  days,  and 
this  will  effectually  remove  the  last  vestige  of  the  bots. 

VEGETABLE  CAUSTIC. 

Make  a  strong  ley  of  hickory  or  oak  ashes,  put  into  an  iron 
kettle  and  evaporate  to  the  consistency  of  thin  molasses  ;  then 
remove  into  a  sand  bath,  and  continue  the  evaporation  to  the 
consistency  of  honey.     Keep  it  in  a  ground  stopped  glas  jar. 

This  caustic  is  very  valuable  in  fistulas,  cancers,  scrofulous 
and  indolent  ulcers,  particularly  where  there  are  sinuses,  nec- 
rosis, (or  decay  of  the  bone,)  and  in  all  cases  where  there  is 


30 

proud  flesh  ;  and  also  to  excite  a  healthy  action  of  the  parts. 
It  removes  fungous  flesh  without  exciting  inflammation,,  and 
acts  but  little  except  on  spongy  or  soft  flesh. 

FOR  CURING  WARTS. 

Take  corrosive  sublimate  and  red  precipitate,  powdered  and 
mixed  in  equal  parts ;  will  cure  the  worst  wart  in  the  world  on 
horses  and  cattle. 

If  the  wart  is  large  and  loose,  tie  a  fine  strong  cord  around 
it  ch)se  to  the  skin.  In  a  short  time  the  wart  will  come  off", 
then  apply  the  powder  until  the  wart  is  eaten  down  below  the 
skin,  then  wash  it  ofi"  and  rub  on  a  little  sweet  oil,  and  it  will 
soon  heal  over.  If  the  wart  is  dry,  scratch  it  with  a  pin  or  the 
point  of  a  knife  untiFit  bleeds,  then  rub  on  the  powder.  It 
will  make  a  dry  scab  ;  pick  off"  the  scab  and  put  on  the  powder 
again  until  it  is  all  eaten  off". 

HOOF  OINTxMENT. 

Take  rosin,  4  ounces  ;  beeswax,  5  ounces ;  lard  2  lbs.  Melt 
together,  and  pour  into  a  pot ;  add  3  ounces  of  turpentine,  2 
ounces  finely  pulverized  verdigris,  1  pound  tallow  ;  stir  all  until 
cold.  This  is  one  of  the  best  medicines  for  the  hoof  ever  used. 
It  is  good  for  corks  and  bruises  of  the  feet. 

CRIBBING 

Is  a  diseased  stomach,  a  belching  of  wind  from  the  stomach. 

To  one  pound  of  pulverized  charcoal  add  one  pound  of  soda ; 
stir  well  together,  and  give  one  tablespoonful  once_  a  day  for  a 
few  days,  and  break  up  the  habit  as  follows  : 

If  a  simple  habit,  arrange  the  stall  so  as  to  make  it  impos- 
sible for  him  to  crib.  This  you  do  by  making  the  stall  plain, 
with  a  simple  box  manger  in  front,  rather  low,  but  extending 
the  whole  width  of  the  stall.  Immediately  over  the  front  edge 
of  this  plain  box  manger,  hang  a  roller,  of  about  six  or  seven 
inches  in  diameter,  on  pivots,  which  must  be  so  arranged  thai  it 
will  turn  easily.  This  roller,  extending  clear  across  the  manger, 
offers  the  only  means  within  reach  upon  which  to  crib.  The 
horse,  in  cribbing,  will  press  his  front  teeth  firmly  upon  this 
roller,  pulling  down  and  towards  him,  which  causes  the  roller 
to  turn  from  under  his  mouth,  and  he  is  defeated  in  his  efforts. 
There  is  no  trouble  in  breaking  a  young  horse  of  this  habit  by 
this  means.  A  very  good  way  is  to  feed  the  horse  from  a  bas- 
ket hung  loosely  by  a  cord  to  something  overhead.  The  roller, 
properly  adjusted,  is  however,  much  the  best  means. 


31 

HOW  TO  PREVENT  HORSES  JUMPING. 
Have  a  good  firm  strap  halter  made  to  fit  the  head  nicely, 
with  a  wide  strap  stitched  to  each  side,  so  as  to  come  over  the 
eyes.  Cut  holes  in  this  strap  over  each  eye ;  over  these  eye- 
holes put  fine  wire  cloth,  supported  nicely  by  wire  so  that  it 
will  not  possibly  touch  the  eyes.  Before  a  horse  attempts  jump- 
ing over  a  fence  he  will  put  his  head  over  to  calculate  hight  and 
distance  he  is  obliged  to  jump  ;  but  by  looking  through  the  wire 
cloth,  every  thing  is  so  magnified  in  appearance  he  isdisconcer- 
ed  in  his  efforts  to  do  so,  and  is  afraid  to  jump. 

corGH. 

Use  elecampane  root,  horehound  and  smart  weed,  with  six 
red  pepper  pods  to  two  ounces  of  ginger  root ;  boil  until  all 
the  strength  is  extracted,  then  strain  through  a  flannel ;  to 
every  gallon  of  this  extract  add  one  quart  of  molasses.  Grive 
one  gill  once  a  day  on  his  feed,  or  from  an  ox  horn. 
RING  BONE  AND  SPAVIN. 

Equal  parts  of  soft  soap,  spirits  of  turpentine  and  FFF  am- 
monia,  mix  and  apply  and  in  two  hours  rub  with  pulverized 
chalk.     Next  day  wash  off  and  repeat. 
JOCKEY  TRICKS. 

How  to  make  a  foundered  and  spavined  horse  go  off  limber. 
Take  tinct.  of  cayenne,  1  oz. ;  laudanum,  2  ozs.  ;  alcohol,  1 
pint ;  rub  the  shoulders  well  with  warm  water,  then  rub  the 
above  on  his  shoulders  and  back-bone ;  give  him  one  ounce  of 
laudanum  and  a  pint  of  gin  ;  put  it  down  his  throat  with  a  junk 
bottle  ;  put  his  feet  in  warm  water,  as  hot  as  he  can  bear  it ; 
take  a  little  spirits  of  turpentine  and  rub  it  at  the  bottom  part 
of  his  feet  with  a  spong  after  taking  them  out  of  the  warm  wa- 
ter ;  drive  him  about  half  a  mile  or  a  mile,  until  he  comes  out 
limber  as  a  rag.  If  he  does  not  surrender  to  his  pain,  tie  a 
thin  cord  around  the  end  of  his  tongue. 

To  make  old  horses  appear  young.  Take  tincture  of  asa- 
foetida,  one  ounce;  tincture  cantharides,  one  ounce;  oil  of 
cloves,  one  ounce ;  oil  of  cinnamon,  one  ounce ;  antimony,  two 
ounces  ;  fenugreek,  one  ounce ;  fourth  proof  brandy,  half  a 
gallon ;  let  stand  ten  days,  then  give  ten  drops  in  one  gallon  of 
water. 

To  make  a  horse  appear  as  if  foundered.  Take  a  fine  wire, 
or  any  substitute,  and  fasten  it  around  the  pastern  joint  at  night ; 
smooth  the  hair  down  over  it  nicely,  and  by  morning  he  will 
walk  as  stiff  as  if  foundered. 


32 

To  make  a  horse  fieshy  in  a  short  time.  Feed  with  buck- 
wheat bran,  to  which  add  a  little  of  the  shorts ;  keep  in  a  dark 
stable.  Half  day's  drive  will  make  a  horse  fatted  in  this  way 
poor. 

To  make  a  horse  stand  by  his  feed  and  not  eat  it.  Grease 
the  front  teeth  and  roof  of  the  mouth  with  common  tallow,  and 
he  will  not  eat  until  you  wash  it  out. 

To  make  a  true  pulling  horse  balk.  Take  tincture  of  can- 
tharides,  one  oz.,  and  corrosive  sublimate,  one  drachm.  Mix 
and  bathe  the  shoulders  at  night. 

To  distinguish  between  distemper  and  glanders.  The  dis- 
charge from  the  nose,  if  glanders,  will  sink  in  water ;  if  dis- 
temper, it  will  not. 

To  make  a  horse  appear  as  if  he  had  the  glanders.  Melt 
fresh  butter  and  pour  in  his  ear. 


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